Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Mango Hollandaise Glacage Filet of Salmon with Pomegranate Gastrique aux Coriander Spaghetti Squash and Thyme Potatoes Anna

A very nice entree that combines classic French preparations with Floribbean flare.

     A glacage is basically a coating of hollandaise sauce that is roasted under a broiler or salamander broiler, till it bubbles and becomes lightly browned.  The challenge is to make a hollandaise that will not break when it is roasted for a few minutes.  
     Chefs who prefer thin hollandaise rarely use the sauce for glacage applications, because the proportion of butter and liquid is too high.  The glacage will thin out and not cling.  One chef that I knew in the past demanded a hollandaise proportion of 8 ounces of butter to 1 egg yolk.  That chef basically was serving an emulsified room temperature hollandaise sauce and that really is not what hollandaise is all about. 
     Chefs who are in the know, who use hollandaise to its fullest potential, prefer a hollandaise proportion of 2 1/2 ounces of butter to 1 egg yolk.  About 4 ounces of butter to 1 egg yolk is the maximum proportion that most chefs use.  The butter should not be the medium for thinning hollandaise, if a this hollandaise application is needed.  Warm water is better for adjusting the consistency.  For a glacage application, the hollandaise should be a rich medium thick consistency that easily coats a featured ingredient.
     There are two methods that most chefs use to make hollandaise and both will produce a rich hollandaise that performs well in all applications.  For today's glacage, the hollandaise has to be thick, so when the heavy mango puree is combined, the sauce does not become thin.  
     The best way to get a strong mango puree flavor is to used sun dried mango.  The flavor is concentrated in the sun drying process.  Reduced fresh mango puree is also good, but the flavor will not be as intense.  A rich strong mango puree carries well in a hollandaise sauce.
     Pomegranate gastrique was used as a secondary sauce in this entree.  Pomegranate goes well with mango.   Streaks of pomegranate gastrique were painted on the hollandaise, before the hollandaise was roasted as glacage.
     Thyme flavored Potatoes Anna line the casserole dish.  Thyme compliments the other flavors in this entree.  Spaghetti squash is an item that has become popular in the last few decades.  Many spaghetti squash fans like the creative recipes that are posted in this food site.  Coriander is a juicy tangy red root that is dried as a spice.  Coriander is a nice flavor for spaghetti squash and it also compliments the other flavors of this entree.  The coriander spaghetti squash is placed in the casserole dis as a bed for the salmon filet.
     Petite casserole dish entrees are part of classic French cuisine and these types of entrees have been overlooked by many modern chefs who only seem to prefer loose Napoleon stack presentations.  I tend to prefer classic presentations with honest portion sizes.  Many gourmet customers prefer this old style of presentation that few modern chefs employ.  There is no excess garnishing in classic French cuisine and the quality of the food preparation does all the talking.  A chef also does not appear to be a price gouging con artist, when honest portion sizes are used.  Customers want to eat and not just taste!  

     Pomegranate Gastrique:
     This gastrique recipe makes enough for 2 servings!
     Many of my gastriques are made at the hard crack sugar stage.  The sugar is cooked to a medium dark amber color for today's gastrique.  It is important to observe the sugar as it changes color from clear, to very pale yellow, then to a light yellow brown amber color.  This happens quickly!  A few seconds later, the sugar changes from a light amber color to a darker golden brown amber color.  This is the time to add the fruit!
     Take caution!  Hot molten sugar will cause severe burns!  Do not stir a gastrique, till shortly after the liquid flavorings are added, or the sugar will stick to the utensil like rock sugar candy.
     Boil 2 cups of water over medium high heat in a sauce pot.
     Add 1/2 cup of sugar.
     Prepare the pomegranate fruit, while the sugar water reduces.
     Separate 1 cup of fresh pomegranate fruit from the rind and set the fruit aside. 
     When the sugar begins to turn a light amber color, stay close to the pan and watch for the sugar to turn a dark amber color.  (Dark amber is a golden yellow brown color.)
     When the sugar turns a dark amber color, immediately add the pomegranate fruit.
     Allow the caramelized sugar to coat the fruit for 1 minute.  (The sugar will stop caramelizing when you add the fruit.  The hot sugar will seize the fruit and pull all of the flavor and color out of the fruit.  The caramelized sugar will completely take on the flavor and color of the fruit!)
     Add 3 tablespoons of pomegranate vinegar.
     Add 3/4 cup of dry white wine.
     Add 1 cup of water.
     Add 1 pinch of sea salt.
     Add 1 pinch of white pepper.
     Add 1 pinch of thyme.
     Reduce the temperature to, low heat.
     Simmer and reduce the gastrique, till a thin glaze is formed.  The glaze should be thick enough to thinly coat the back of a spoon.  Keep in mind that when a gastrique cools, it may become a little bit thicker consistency.
     Pour the gastrique through a fine mesh strainer into a small bowl.
     Place the pomegranate gastric in a plastic squirt bottle.

     Sun Dried Mango Puree:
     This recipe makes enough puree for 1 or 2 portions of mango hollandaise.
     Place 1/2 cup of thin sliced sun dried mango in a sauce pot.
     Add 2 cups of water.
     Simmer over low heat, till the sun dried mango becomes very tender.
     Puree the mango and liquid together.
     Return the very thin puree to the sauce pot over low heat.
     Simmer and reduce, till the puree becomes a thick heavy consistency, with no excess liquid.
     Set the sun dried mango puree aside.

     Spaghetti Squash:
     The size of a spaghetti squash can affect the baking time.  For the most part, a baking time of 20 to 25 minutes is sufficient for any spaghetti squash that is smaller than a football.  For any larger spaghetti squash, 5 or 10 minutes of extra baking time may be needed.
     Pierce two small holes on 1 whole spaghetti squash with a metal skewer to create steam vents. 
     Place the whole spaghetti squash on a rack in a 350º oven.
     Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, till the spaghetti squash shell feels piping hot when quickly touched.
     Remove the spaghetti squash from the oven and let it cool for 5 minutes.
     Cut the spaghetti squash in half across the middle.  
     Note:  Do not cut spaghetti squash end to end, or the spaghetti strands will be cut into short pieces!  Long strands of al dente spaghetti squash is the goal.
     Allow the spaghetti squash to cool to room temperature.
     Use a spoon to scoop out the small amount of seeds and loose pulp from the middle of the squash.
     Starting from the center layer, gently use a fork to loosen, pry and pull the long spaghetti strands of squash marrow out of the spaghetti squash.
     The spaghetti squash meat can now be portioned.  The spaghetti squash can refrigerated in a sealed container for a few days for later use.

     Coriander Spaghetti Squash:
     Heat a saute pan over medium/medium low heat.
     Add 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter.
     Add 1/2 teaspoon of minced shallot.
     Add 1/2 teaspoon of minced white part of a green onion.  
     Saute till the onions turn clear in color.
     Add 1 1/4 cups of prepared spaghetti squash strands.
     Saute till the squash starts to become a golden color.
     Add 1/4 teaspoon of coriander.
     Add sea salt and white pepper.
     Add 1/2 cup of light vegetable broth.
     Add 1/2 cup of water.
     Rapidly simmer and reduce, till the liquid evaporates.
     Keep the coriander spaghetti squash warm on a stove top.

     Potatoes Anna:
     Very thin slice about 4 to 5 ounces of peeled russet potato.
     Brush the potato slices with melted unsalted butter.
     Lightly season with sea salt and white pepper.
     Sprinkle 1 pinch of thyme over the potatoes.
     Brush an oval shaped individual size casserole dish with melted unsalted butter.
     Overlap the buttered potato slices around the rim of the casserole dish.
     Place the casserole dish on a sheet pan.
     Bake in a 350º oven, till the Potatoes Anna become a golden color.
     Keep the Potatoes Anna warm on a stove top.
     Modified Classic Hollandaise:
     This recipe makes 4 to 6 servings of sauce!  
     I never thought that this mid 1900's Le Cordon Bleu method of making hollandaise would produce a sauce that would not break, when used as a glacage.  I had to test the glacage capability of this hollandaise sauce in today's recipe to find out.  This modified hollandaise does not break when used as a glacage.  
     This simple hollandaise technique may seem impossible, but it is very easy to master.  The finished hollandaise should look like the one in the pictures above. 
     A large digital candy thermometer is best for making this sauce.  The temperatures have to be read quickly, while stirring with a whisk.  Digital candy thermometers have clips for attaching them to a pot or bowl.
     You cannot stop stirring, once the sauce is started, or the sauce will seize!
     Place 2 egg yolks in a medium size mixing bowl.
     Add 1 tablespoon of dijon mustard.
     Add 1/2 teaspoon of worcestershire sauce.
     Add 1/2 tablespoon of cayenne pepper sauce.
     Add 1/2 tablespoon of white wine vinegar.
     Add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
     Add sea salt and white pepper.  (4 pinches is about right)
     Cut 8 ounces of chilled unsalted butter into 1/2" cube shaped pieces.
     Add the small unsalted butter cubes.
     Attach a digital candy thermometer to the bowl, so the probe tip is below the level of the ingredients and so it is not touching the bowl.
     Place medium size sauce pot over medium high heat.
     Add 4" of water.
     Note:  This is the double boiler set up.  The water in the pot should not touch the bottom of the mixing bowl.  Pour some water out of the pot, if the water touches the bowl.
     Bring the water to a boil.
     Reduce the temperature to medium low/low heat.
     Place the mixing bowl with the hollandaise ingredients on top of the sauce pot to create a double boiler.
     Immediately start gently stirring with a long handle whisk.
     Constantly gently stir with a whisk, till the butter melts and and the hollandaise becomes a liquid state.  (The butter will emulsify with the egg yolks as it melts.)
     Constantly gently stir, till the hollandaise reaches a temperature of 145º.  
     Note:  At 145º, the hollandaise will emulsify and it will look like a sauce!
     Constantly stir till the thermometer reaches 165º.
     Note:  Keep an eye on the thermometer, because the temperature will reach 180º quickly!  Keep in mind that if the hollandaise goes over 185º, it will break and you will have to start all over again!
     Constantly gently stir till the temperature reaches 179º to 180º.
     Immediately remove the mixing bowl from the double boiler.
     Place the mixing bowl on a counter top.
     Constantly gently whisk, so the hollandaise cools evenly.
     Stir till the temperature reaches 135º.
     Place the hollandaise sauce in a ceramic container.
     Place the ceramic container in a 125º to 130º bain marie.
     Stir occasionally.
     Add a few drops of water if the hollandaise becomes too thick.
     Serve the hollandaise within 45 minutes, so the Servsafe temperature danger zone factor does not cause the sauce to become a pathogenic threat. 

     Broiled Salmon Filet:  
     Brush a 6 ounce salmon filet with melted unsalted butter.
     Season with sea salt and white pepper.
     Place the filet on a small broiler pan.
     Pour 1 ounce of dry white wine over the salmon.
     Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of lemon juice over the salmon.
     Place the broiler pan under a broiler that is set to a medium high flame or temperature.
     Broil till the salmon is fully cooked, but so it is still moist.
     Keep the broiled salmon warm on a stove top.

     Mango Hollandaise: 
     Do this step shortly before assembling the entree.
     Mix 1 1/2 tablespoons of the sun dried mango puree with 3 ounces of the hollandaise sauce in a ceramic cup.

     Mango Hollandaise Glacage Filet of Salmon with Pomegranate Gastrique aux Coriander Spaghetti Squash and Thyme Potatoes Anna:
     Everything needed for finishing this entree is already prepared, so finishing this recipe is easy.  Keep an eye on the glacage as it roasts under a broiler.  The goal is to broil the glacage till light golden brown highlights appear.
     Keep the Potatoes Anna lined casserole dish on a sheet pan.
     Place a bed of coriander spaghetti squash in the casserole dish.
     Use a spatula to place the broiled salmon on the spaghetti squash bed.
     Spoon a generous thick layer of the mango hollandaise over the salmon filet, so it overflows onto the bed of spaghetti squash.
     Use the squirt bottle to paint streaks of pomegranate gastrique on the mango hollandaise.
     Place the sheet pan and casserole dish low under a broiler that is set to a medium flame.
     Roast the mango hollandaise glacage, till golden brown highlights appear.  (This only takes about 1 minute!)
     Remove the pan from the broiler.
     Place the Mango Hollandaise Glacage Filet of Salmon with Pomegranate Gastrique aux Coriander Spaghetti Squash and Thyme Potatoes Anna petite casserole dish on a serving plate.  
     Garnish with Italian parsley sprigs.

     Viola!  Making an entree like this in a professional restaurant kitchen is easy, because most of the items are prepared ahead of time.  The same time management is used to make this entree in a home kitchen.  Some of the ingredients can be prepared well ahead of time.  Once the hollandaise is made, time becomes limited, so the the dish must be finished within 45 minutes.  Bon Appetite!  ...  Shawna

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